From bud to back: The cotton trade
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From bud to back: The cotton trade |
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Synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, acrylic and polypropylene are being heavily used within the global textile industry. These fibres all derive from oil, strengthening both markets and decreasing fibre prices. Thousands of pieces of clothing a day can be produced using man made fibres, all non-biodegradable and dependent upon heavy machinery, fuel and chemicals. Clothes made from natural fibres like cotton can be a more sustainable choice, but not any old cotton will do! The cotton market today has three main producers - USA, China and India. 75% of US cotton is created from GM seed, often needing harsh pesticides. 30% of the world's cotton is being traded by five international trading houses resulting in further price manipulation. This domination of the US stock exchange and other rich nation's trade tariffs and subsidies has significantly hurt developing countries. Africa who produce some of the worlds best cotton, have to export it in raw form in order to compete with industrialised textile production. Increasing amounts are being blended with synthetic fibres, dropping levels of crop quality. Labour and agriculturally rich countries are forced to sell what produce they have, in order to make ends meet. However in most cases, trade prices barely cover the cost of production. " Currently, developing countries are experiencing a lose-lose situation, on the one hand being forced to export raw cotton but on the other being stopped in their tracks by subsidized production in the industrialised world." Ron Oswald, General Secretary of global union federation. Many have the view that business is business, and the market is extremely competitive. However, economies with 1 or 2 cash crops cannot easily adapt to these fluctuations in the market. Instability of prices, over pricing of inputs such as fertilisers, fuels and chemicals as well as failing levels of health and medical care due to high rates of injury cannot be supported by the already low wages gained from this industry. How will small rural farmers survive? Global trade unions have demanded the world trade organisation to 'embark on a root and branch reform' of trade in cotton. They are to look at domestic food production as a means to move farmers away from sole dependency on cotton. This will also help to diversify the crops grown with peanuts, maize and sesame seed s to name a few as a means of rotation from cotton, and decreasing levels of poverty and starvation. Many companies and consumers alike are turning to products that are high quality, organic or fairly traded. Small producers in the southern Brazilian state, Parana have cultivated organic cotton and are already exporting. The majority of their crop is left raw with a percentage being made into clothes by NGO Onda Solidaria. It is then sold through a partner in France- Tudo Bom or made into Canvas for eco-gym shoes made by Veja Fair Trade, selling on the French, English and Japanese markets. A 'syrup' of water, concentrates made from roots, bark of various plants and fresh manure was developed to use on their crops. It requires only 2 applications as a pesticide, a significant reduction to the 15 applications needed by chemical versions. If widely spread this could result in cleaner drinking waters often used to irrigate fields, in turn reducing illness to workers and the environment. Fair trade now comprises of over 20 organisations worldwide, with goods being sold in 18 countries benefiting 5 billion people. This means social premiums are paid to co-operatives to be spent collectively within the community. Educational enhancement, re-investment in the form of organic pesticides and a raised standard of living can be achieved. A guaranteed price is set for the cotton which provides a safety net for workers who might otherwise fall into debt or consider suicide as a way out. It is essential that products carry the accredited label as many companies will try to guise their wares under this banner in an attempt to flatter western shoppers in their quest for political correctness. Consumers no longer wish to buy cheap goods at 'any price', they are willing to pay a living wage for workers within the industry. Major retailers in the UK, such as Sainsbury's, Tesco and Marks and Spencer are tapping into this market to cater for consumers growing need. Hirdaramani group is already manufacturing fair trade garments through extended accreditation Marks and Spencer. Deputy general manager of Ocean Lanka, the largest weft knit fabric manufacturer says "Previously there was no fair trade source here for the big fair trade garment companies in Europe and the US to source from, but the whole ethical trading initiative is now very important in those countries. So if we have fair trade accredited manufacturers here, we become a more desirable sourcing destination." Pippa Fox |
Action for Sustainable Living, St Wilfrid's Enterprise Centre, Royce Road, Hulme, , M15 5BJ.Email: [email protected] Tel: 0845 634 4510 Fax: 0870 167 4655. |